From Sacred Surf to Extreme Sport
A visitor stumbling onto a reef might notice more than waves: a single carved wooden board can speak of status. In Polynesia, surfing was not a pastime but a staged performance for chiefs, a visible enactment of power. That scene—ritual, rank and timber—frames a longer story of cultural transfer and reinterpretation.Polynesian Origins: Early accounts and oral traditions place the practice in the i...More
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