Neon-lit billboards, stalled exhaust, and a slow river of taxis pull millions of travelers into Bangkok, even though the city is only a launchpad to some of Thailand’s most startling landscapes. Within a few hours’ reach, entire shorelines and canals rearrange what visitors thought this country was about.Along quiet coasts, bays flicker with bioluminescent plankton, a textbook case of chemilumines...
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