Inside the split‑second calm of a surfer’s brain
White water looks chaotic; the brain inside a skilled surfer treats it as a pattern generator. Under the slap of a breaking lip, forces spike to levels similar to a minor collision, yet cortical activity does not mirror that violence. Through years of repetition, sensory systems learn wave regularities, so the brain runs internal models that forecast where water and board will move a heartbeat lat...More
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