Confusing branding, not shared tradition, explains why wildly different desserts now answer to the name “pudding.” In some countries, the word points to steamed suet mixtures; in others, to bread soaked in cream; on mass‑market shelves, though, it usually points to a pourable custard thickened in a factory vat.Central to that bestseller is not sugar or flavoring, but protein chemistry. Egg protein...
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