Why Coasts Retreat or Grow
A wet strand remembers nothing. Yet the fresh curve of a beach, cut beneath a retreating wave, records a running argument: wave energy removes grains, while rivers, cliffs, and offshore bars supply them. Where the sediment ledger stays positive, land advances; where it fails, the sea collects its debt.Erosion is often misread as a simple assault from the ocean. It is a deficit. Longshore transport...More
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