Smoothness is won by restraint. Less a whipped dessert than a fragile emulsion, cheesecake batter stays finely dispersed when eggs, dairy fat, sugar, and water are stirred slowly; its protein matrix is spared foam that later swells, cracks, and collapses.Violence is the wrong tool. High-speed whipping drives air into batter and can destabilize the fat-and-water emulsion; in the oven, bubbles expan...More